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Evolutionary Osl


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#1 Gorog Irongut

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 10:14 AM

In PWP 2, Frank in the front rank expressed a desire to learn more about OSL. While I am by no means an expert, I've played around with it a bit so I took up the challenge. Hopefully this will help me improve as much as it does him and anyone else who feels like being daring.

Now before, I squash everyones will to live by explaining the how, it's time to lift our spirits by giving us some eye candy. Modelling eye candy that is.
















"OSL........allright. Here we go. I'm going to try to keep this simple by breaking it up into sequential blocks. I'm going to go from start to finish, simple to complex.Hopefully it will be such that you can stop wherever you want and still have something nice. Some of this can be a little confusing. Be patient, this isnt the easyest thing to learn depending on how far you want to go. This is a subject that has literally endless variations possible. Some of these things are like riding a bike I can tell you and show what to do, but there is some that you simply will have to learn from doing. I dont say these things to be discouraging but to be realistic with you. What I will tell-show you, take it and play with it, see what happens, go with that seemingly wierd idea that occurs to you. Trial and error (or sucess!) can lead you to some fantastic things. If you are new to OSL start with a really simple mini."


That was the beginning paragraph from a tutorial in the subsequent link. Learn it. Love it. You'll never be able to grasp all of it in one go. Just keep knocking away at it and soon you'll find that you've learned something amazing. All props go to Shawn R.L. for creating the tutorial and for hand-holding me as I painted my first models. Remember the key is to not be afraid. Something amazing will come out if you just push the boundaries. Take Frank... with his PWP 2. It never occured to me to do glowing tattoos the way he did. They came out amazing. If you push it, you may screw up but you've learned something. Behold the link. Go back to it a couple of times without forcing yourself to try and understand more than you really do. It comes in steps.

http://www.coolminio...article/aid/328


So after the eye candy and the article, I want you to pick a simple model. Then choose the light source (don't pick multiple for your first go as this will make it really complicated). Then determine the level of ambient light. Is it mid day? Is it midnight? The greater the contrast between light and dark, the more the OSL will 'pop.

Let me know when you've gotten this far.

#2 Frank on the front rank

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 12:00 PM

Thanks Gorog and a very speedy response.

OK, here is where I am to with regards to OSL. I have done a few pieces but never really been entirely happy. This is the only piece I have a picture of, all the rest got a bath of Nitro Mors.


Like I said in the PwP2 thread, I understand what is supposed to happen and can do it roughly but need the transitions a lot tidier.

I will try and find a suitable model and get back to you with it.

Cheers

Frank.

#3 Gorog Irongut

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Posted 23 August 2008 - 12:49 PM

Thanks for the speedy response yourself. The picture isn't too bad. You're making a couple of common errors which are easily remedied. I'd like you to start changing your thought process on colours. Think warm and cool. Certain colours seem naturally cool like blue. Just like Red is almost invariably hot. Run through the list of colours that you find warm. Light=warmth. Shadow=cool.


Things you will need:
1. This is easiest and most accurate if you have a syringe. You will be diluting your paints extensively. For this you will need a readily accessible pot of water w/ magic floorwash or whatever else you use to decrease bond between the paint without allowing it to pool. I personally use normal old dish soap. Mix up a container with 5 parts water and 1 part dish soap. For ease I then dip the syringe into the mix and suck it up into the tube. I do this because I can then easily dispense exactly identical drops of the mix. There is no guesswork and you don't have to use your paintbrush. It never dries out and just sits there ready to be used. No mess occurs unless you accidentally push on the syringe. Avoid the accidents and it's amazing.

2, One of the most useful tools you can develop for painting OSL (or anything else to be honest) is to make a lovely blue-black wash. My particular formula was to take an empty pot provided by GW. I then mixed 3 1/2 parts ultramarine blue w/ 1 1/2 parts chaos black into the bottle. I then added 5 parts of the water soap mix mentioned above to finish off the pot. 10 parts split into 5 water, 3.5 blue, 1.5 black. With this tool handy, we can go from there.

3. Although we're not at that stage yet, you will need to specialize your picture taking setup. This is because we're taking all extraneous light sources out in our paintjob. It would be foolish to then allow the ambient lighting to start adding in other light sources.

4. While not necessary, it can be REALLY helpful if you have an airbrush. If you don't, then don't sweat it. If you do, it can just speed up a couple processes.


It's also important to note that it is exceptionally difficult to paint metals in anything but NMM when doing OSL. It has to do with the reflective properties of the paint. When you do OSL, you're trying to control every possible source of light. Metallic paints, unless done in a very precise and painstaking manner, provide you with a rogue reflective surface. A big no-no for OSL.

#4 Frank on the front rank

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Posted 26 August 2008 - 06:21 PM

QUOTE
Thanks for the speedy response yourself


And then I go and screw it up by spending another few days getting back to you. Anyway I have got the model I will be testing on. The Champion of Slaanesh.
http://uk.games-work...ure-gallery/11/

I would have picked a Dwarf but I don't own one in a good enough pose to paint OSL. Also, I will be starting a Slaanesh mortal army when the new book comes out in November (mostly for painting and modelling) so this can be my starting point.

1. I will have a look around my house for a syringe, I should have one somewhere.

2. Do you think this could be changed to a purple/black wash? It would be my prefered colour but if not it will be no major problem.

3. Getting better I promise. This was taken some time ago on a 3 or 4MP camera. I have upgraded now and read a few guides on picture taking.

4. I don't have one but if it is something I end up doing a lot of I might invest in one.

NMM is another technique I have flirted with so a two in one tutorial could be good.

What colour should I undercoat him? I have black or white sprays or I can lay down a basecoat of any other colour in the GW range.

Just one more thing. I think the Dreadnoughts look absolutelt great but I am unsure they would look that good on anything but a black background. I was hoping to have my odd OSL model in a playing army and him still looking good on the battlefield, will this cause much problems?

Frank.

#5 Gorog Irongut

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Posted 27 August 2008 - 02:21 PM

QUOTE (Frank on the front rank @ Aug 26 2008, 07:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
1. I will have a look around my house for a syringe, I should have one somewhere.
It's not necessary but it's hugely helpful.

2. Do you think this could be changed to a purple/black wash? It would be my prefered colour but if not it will be no major problem.
I would like to know why you prefer the purple. This might clue me in to a good reason behind it. My qualm is that purple isn't a cold colour and thus will be more difficult to use in the shaded areas.
3. Getting better I promise. This was taken some time ago on a 3 or 4MP camera. I have upgraded now and read a few guides on picture taking.
There's a special knack for doing OSL models but for the most part you use the same tools.
4. I don't have one but if it is something I end up doing a lot of I might invest in one.
If you don't have one. Don't sweat it.
NMM is another technique I have flirted with so a two in one tutorial could be good.
OSL NMM can be hugely variable. We potentially can do something helpful.
What colour should I undercoat him? I have black or white sprays or I can lay down a basecoat of any other colour in the GW range.
Black, black, black.
Just one more thing. I think the Dreadnoughts look absolutelt great but I am unsure they would look that good on anything but a black background. I was hoping to have my odd OSL model in a playing army and him still looking good on the battlefield, will this cause much problems?
They may not look as stunning on the table as against a black background but he will still be good.
Frank.



Okay. First things first. You've picked the model. What and where is the light source? How bright will the light source be? Will this scene/model be set in daylight or night? What colour will the light source be (the easiest will be a fire looking light source)?

Create a narrative/background to the model and then I'll know where to go from.

#6 Tungdil Goldhand

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Posted 27 August 2008 - 03:24 PM

I think I have a model, the chef with roast that comes with the Goblobber. The roast has a fire underneath, which means the lower part of the roast (pig) should be lightened and some parts of the chef.

Anyway, when do you need to do OSL? While you are painting or afterwards? I've painted him already, that's why ...

#7 Gorog Irongut

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Posted 27 August 2008 - 08:37 PM

QUOTE (Tungdil Goldhand @ Aug 27 2008, 04:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I think I have a model, the chef with roast that comes with the Goblobber. The roast has a fire underneath, which means the lower part of the roast (pig) should be lightened and some parts of the chef.

Anyway, when do you need to do OSL? While you are painting or afterwards? I've painted him already, that's why ...


It's not the easiest thing to do when the model's already painted. The best I would tell you is to go for it, but if you want to keep the current paintjob and just alter it slightly, then you would have to paint it as if it were in daylight and just include the lighting effects. I've tried to do something similar and tried to do extreme lighting (midnight contrasted with the lighting effects). I ended up just painting over everything that I'd already painted.

I guess it just depends what you want.

#8 Frank on the front rank

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Posted 27 August 2008 - 11:40 PM

QUOTE (Gorog Irongut @ Aug 27 2008, 03:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (Frank on the front rank @ Aug 26 2008, 07:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
1. I will have a look around my house for a syringe, I should have one somewhere.
It's not necessary but it's hugely helpful.

I've got the missus to get me one tomorrow, she tells me we don't have one.

2. Do you think this could be changed to a purple/black wash? It would be my prefered colour but if not it will be no major problem.
I would like to know why you prefer the purple. This might clue me in to a good reason behind it. My qualm is that purple isn't a cold colour and thus will be more difficult to use in the shaded areas.

Purple will be my main colour for my Slaaneshi army so I wanted the darker parts to at least have a hint of the main colour if possible. I can have a play with a few colours and try to come up with a colder colour that I am happy with.

3. Getting better I promise. This was taken some time ago on a 3 or 4MP camera. I have upgraded now and read a few guides on picture taking.
There's a special knack for doing OSL models but for the most part you use the same tools.

We can cross that bridge when we come to it.

4. I don't have one but if it is something I end up doing a lot of I might invest in one.
If you don't have one. Don't sweat it.

The missus has said she will buy me one.....but not until Christmas, oh well will just have to get by until then.

NMM is another technique I have flirted with so a two in one tutorial could be good.
OSL NMM can be hugely variable. We potentially can do something helpful.

I hope so wink.gif

What colour should I undercoat him? I have black or white sprays or I can lay down a basecoat of any other colour in the GW range.
Black, black, black.

OK,OK,OK. Didn't know if you would work up or down shades. Will have him ready tomorrow.

Just one more thing. I think the Dreadnoughts look absolutelt great but I am unsure they would look that good on anything but a black background. I was hoping to have my odd OSL model in a playing army and him still looking good on the battlefield, will this cause much problems?
They may not look as stunning on the table as against a black background but he will still be good.

Don't get me wrong I think they look awesome, just wanted to work on a more battlefield orientated paintjob.



Okay. First things first. You've picked the model. What and where is the light source? How bright will the light source be? Will this scene/model be set in daylight or night? What colour will the light source be (the easiest will be a fire looking light source)?

Create a narrative/background to the model and then I'll know where to go from.


Right, the lightsource will be the sword he is carrying, as it will be a magic sword it can be as bright as you think it needs to be, scene will be overcast/dark evening, a typical rainy Warhammer battle day. We can make it a red/orange/yellow OSL, no problems there.

I don't really have a narrative for him, this is the first time I will be delving into Chaos in the Warhammer world. I was hoping more for a generic version of painting OSL which could be applied and worked on with any type of model, be it battlefield or showpiece.

Frank.

#9 Tungdil Goldhand

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 01:38 PM

QUOTE
It's not the easiest thing to do when the model's already painted. The best I would tell you is to go for it, but if you want to keep the current paintjob and just alter it slightly, then you would have to paint it as if it were in daylight and just include the lighting effects. I've tried to do something similar and tried to do extreme lighting (midnight contrasted with the lighting effects). I ended up just painting over everything that I'd already painted.

I guess it just depends what you want.


I don't really want to throw him in the thinner again, but if I want OSL (which I do), I can't just do the ones not painted yet and leave the rest as they are. I think I'll just refrain from painting the figures with a light source on them (candles, fires) and decide later on.

How about a (badab) black wash on the dark sides and a light/white/(light)yellow wash on the lighter sides? Would that work or just ruin the model?

#10 Gorog Irongut

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 02:39 PM

Here are a couple of pics for inspiration. Dwarfs can be done OSL.





Frank... is this following pic too light for what you're thinking or just about right?


Here's the beforehand before he decided to paint it OSL.



Here's a pic that highlights how handy an airbrush can be. One of the hardest things with OSL is figuring exactly where the lighty will lie. With an airbrush, it does the work for you.


#11 Gorog Irongut

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 02:42 PM

Tungdil. The quickest way for me to tell anything is for you to post a picture. Then I can tell you what would be best. Without the picture it's kind of like driving blind.

#12 Tungdil Goldhand

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 04:45 PM

Oh, I got more, from a dutch forum:




http://pic20.picture...0/291477117.jpg
http://pic20.picture...0/291477441.jpg
http://pic20.picture...0/291477116.jpg

This is the figure:


That would mean that the lower part of the pig-thing needs to be light(er), the upper part of the pig dark(er), and a little lighter on the lower part of the chef (cookpot, left shoe and leg, a bit of the apron .. )

Edited by Tungdil Goldhand, 28 August 2008 - 04:48 PM.


#13 Frank on the front rank

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Posted 28 August 2008 - 10:25 PM

I prefer the blue OSL from the sword but I am just as happy with you teaching me the red.

Good example for the airbrush, might pick up one a little earlier than christmas.

Got my guy blacked up now and ready for first stage. Are you wanting a pic?

Frank.

#14 Gorog Irongut

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 06:59 AM

QUOTE (Frank on the front rank @ Aug 28 2008, 11:25 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I prefer the blue OSL from the sword but I am just as happy with you teaching me the red.

Good example for the airbrush, might pick up one a little earlier than christmas.

Got my guy blacked up now and ready for first stage. Are you wanting a pic?

Frank.

I'm always wanting a piccie.


Okay, I edited this because I've been thinking about your colour scheme. Was I correct that you wanted your model lit up similar to that Azrael model? Is that what you would view the ambient lighting similar to rather than the pitch black destruction of robot pics farther up? What are your thoughts regarding having your sword lit up not red or blue but purple? The reason why I mention purple is that a. you want it in your scheme b. it's done less frequently and so could be unique c. purple is a warm colour and would thus make it easier in teaching you. The only downside is that if you want to have a cloudy day level of ambient light like in the model, you will still be painting the rest of non-OSL affected areas on the model. This means choices of colour schemes, etc. It also means that you won't want anything detracting from the lighting (i.e. purple) and thus won't be able to use purple elsewhere. But we could make the purple strong enough to be the dominant colour on the model.

Let me know what you think from my above questions.

Edited by Gorog Irongut, 29 August 2008 - 07:10 AM.


#15 Gorog Irongut

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 07:02 AM

@Tungdil

I think that you can do OSL on that model without having to strip it. Try and get all of things I asked Frank to get (you can skip the airbrush) and paint the fire pure, pure white. Then get back to me with a piccie.

#16 Tungdil Goldhand

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 10:26 AM

Alright. I'll have to search for a syringe though (never heard the english word before wink.gif ), as I don't think we have one at home. Is it OK the make the mixture with enchanted blue rather than ultramarine?

#17 Frank on the front rank

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 02:43 PM

QUOTE
I'm always wanting a piccie.


Here, four of them.





Sorry about the light change, had a lamp on my knee and the model on a chair in front of me. I've shown you the four different sides so you can see where the sword is positioned for the light source.

I was wanting an ambient light source as well as the OSL. I am quite happy to swap the weather for anything you want but not too light as to diffuse the light source too much.
Purple sounds fine to me, will it be done with GW paints because there only seems to be two different purples? I am ordering 10 Vallejo (model) colours soon so if there is a good purple in that range let me know and I will pick it up.

Just had an idea, could we make the lightsource pink? This way I would be able to paint the armour with highlights of a bue-ish purple.
I was trying to think up a colour scheme for the rest of the model that would be darker than the purple light but can't really think of anything except from black and I was trying to avoid everything being black.

Let me know what you think. I the mean time I will be exchanging the head for that of a demonette (just saw one on google and thought it looked really good).

Frank.

#18 Gorog Irongut

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 05:15 PM

QUOTE (Tungdil Goldhand @ Aug 29 2008, 11:26 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Alright. I'll have to search for a syringe though (never heard the english word before wink.gif ), as I don't think we have one at home. Is it OK the make the mixture with enchanted blue rather than ultramarine?

Just a little less of it as it's lighter.

#19 Gorog Irongut

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 07:09 PM

Frank... I'm flabbergasted. I don't think I'm brave enough to do a pink light source. I'd be afraid it came across as pastel. Naaawww... I just thought it over again and my being shirks away from it. Let me have a little think about it while you do the same.

In the meantime give the entire model a drybrush of codex grey. You'll want this to be medium to light when you do it. It would also be helpful if you did it as if you were doing zenithal highlighting (i.e. from above with prominences having a heavier amount of grey). It also needs to be smooth. Then post just one piccie of the model. Oh and paint the sword pure white.

The only reason I would say to not to my above is if you want to paint the model monotone except for the sword. It's difficult but can be stunning. A good example is Ramos the steampunk sorceror that I posted with the spider guy.

Two points:
1. The colour scheme doesn't have to be darker than the purple. It just has to be different.
2. I don't know the vallejo purples well. I'm a big fan of mixing paints so I'll give you colour swathes to match to. The link to the colour chart I'll be using is here http://www.theawrist...om/pantone.html


Awaiting an update.


#20 Perv

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Posted 29 August 2008 - 07:48 PM

I dont really want to reply in this thread so as not to break the flow but I'm watching it with great interest and I bet lots of others are. Please consider making it a sticky thread as I for one will come back to look at this, probably for the next few years wink.gif

Edited by Perv, 29 August 2008 - 07:48 PM.





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