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Mousekiller's Dwarf Hero Painting Guide - In One Place


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#1 LF - Kevin B

LF - Kevin B

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Posted 26 August 2007 - 08:07 PM

Well the origonal post done by Mousekiller was very long and the well done posts by all here put large gaps between each stage. So i have asked Mousekiller and he has allowed me to compile the whole series in a new post to show all the stages he did and to make it easier for us to follow. So now take it away MR Killer of mouses:

_____________________________________________________________________________


Ok, someone asked me a while back for tips on how to paint skin. So, instead of just doing that piece, I am going to do a full step by step on the entire model.

Model: Dwarf Hero
Model Number: AoW01
Manufacturer: Avatars of War
Sculptor: Felix Paniagua

Background on the model and the sculptor. Felix Paniagua has done a lot of models in his time sculpting. You can see some of his other things at: Felix's Site. He started his Avatar's of War company a few months back and ever since I have been in love with his models (he currently only has three in his range, but they are all magnificent). This will be the first of his models that I have painted, so I am really looking forward to it.

Chapter 1: Pinning.

Ok, this model has come in 4 parts: The main body, the right hand and axe, the mohawk hair, and the lock of hair.
Tools needed for this section: Clippers, super glue, model pinning drill and a 1/32 bit, a paper clip, and a razor blade



Ok, the very first step will be to clip the three small pieces (axe, lock of hair, mohawk) from the piece of flash that they come on. Use the clippers to do this (sorry no pics of this step).

Next will be to decide where you want to pin the pieces together. There is no great science to this. Some people suggest that you pin one end, line it up, put a dot of paint, and that will mark where you will drill the adjoining hole. I just guestimate and save myself all that heartache.



Next, cut yourself some pieces of paperclip to pin with. I use the paperclips that have a rubbercoat on them, as they fit perfectly into my 1/32 inch holes.



Once you have that done, place the paper clip in the smaller piece and glue it into place.



Then, match the two pieces up to make sure that you have a proper fit. You may have to trim the paper clip or drill your hole deeper at this point. You also may have to trim some of the pieces a bit to make sure that they fit.



Once it all matches up, add some super glue to the area to be pinned and join the two pieces together. You do not need a large amount of superglue, just enough to cover the area.



And it is as simple as that. For larger pieces (dragon tails, etc) I use a larger drill bit (1/16) and pieces of coat hanger.



Up next will be prepping the models... so stay tuned.




Chapter 2: Prepping the model

Alright, so we have pinned the model. Now we have to get it ready to be painted. This means washing the model, getting rid of mould lines and flash, and filling in any gaps with epoxy putty.

Washing the model
Equipment needed: Dish soap, hot water, tooth brush.

Alright no pics here... because I skip this step. It is highly recommended in almost any painting manuals that I have read, but I have never done it and never had any problems.

Mould Lines
Equipment needed: Exacto knife, files, dremel

On this particular model, getting rid of the mould lines was easy, and there was almost no flash at all. All I had to do was use my exacto knife to carefully shave away the mould lines on his arms and the axes. However, on other models this can be a major step, and may involve more tools like files and a dremel, which I highly recommend getting if you are serious about painting.

Filling in the Gaps
Equipment needed: Exacto knife, epoxy putty (two part putty, green and yellow, often referred to as green stuff), and water

Mixing the epoxy putty is very easy. Cut yourself a small piece of yellow and a small piece of blue (or just pull it off the lump). Wet your fingers (this is probably the most important step, as it keeps the putty from sticking to you). Then roll the putty between your fingers until it has a nice green look to it. Easy.



On this model we have three main parts that needed to be fixed up.

The first is that gap between the mohawk and the tail in the back. In order to get the putty into the gap, I find it to be much easier to take a small piece of putty on the end of my exacto blade and stick it into the gap. Then, I dip the blade into some water and use the back of the blade to blend the putty into the model.



The second area that needs attention was mostly my fault. At the end of the tail in the back of his head there needs to be a piece of hair, and I think that that is the piece that I stuck to the center of his beard in the front. Oh well, I think it looks better anyway. So, the easy fix is to sculpt a quick little tail. This is very easy to do. Take a ball of putty and stick it under the tail where you want the extension of hair. Then, wet your blade again. Start by using the back of the blade to make indentations in the putty, making sure to pull away from the join. Once that is done, flip the blade over and use the sharp side to distinguish the blades of hair to your liking.



And the last place that needs attention is the join of the wrist where we pinned the right arm. This is the easiest piece. Take a small piece of putty, very small piece, and place it in the join. Then, just like before use the back of the exacto knife to blend it into the creases of the hand.



Now, the last stage of this game is to set the model aside for a few hours so the putty has time to dry. This will prevent you from accidentally ruining your work with fingerprints.

Up next will be basing.


Chapter 3: Basing

Ok, so we have the model prepped. The next step for me is to base the model, or at least get the majority of the stuff that I want on the base there. This is important because it allows your basing material to get a coat of primer also.

Step 1: Decide what type of base that you want.

For me this is my favorite step, as I really enjoy doing bases. Also, if you are building an army, it is important to have a really nice theme. Usually, for dwarfs I go with a rocky, wintery theme, so for this one we will do the same.

Step 2: Base it.
Materials needed: Cork board, elmers glue, super glue, sand mixture

Choose the materials you want to use. There are so many things out there that you can use, from real rocks to bark to erasers, the sky is the limit. I like using cork because it is nicely textured and very light.

Take the piece of cork in your hands and start picking pieces off of it until you are happy with the product. Set them on the base in the layout that you prefer, and make sure that you test it with your model before attaching anything permanently. Once you are happy with the product, super glue the pieces of cork to the base.



Let the superglue dry for a bit so you don't mess up the cork. Then, add some texture to the rest of the base using sand. I do this by applying a couple of drops of elmers glue (or any sort of wood glue will do) and smearing it in the areas I want texture with a brush. Once that is done I dip the entire base into my sand drawer and press it into the sand.

NOTE: I think it is very critical to keep an entire drawer of sand. Some people use baggies or tupperware, but I really like the ability to get into the sand and play with it. Also, I use a mix of fine and medium sand to give a more realistic texture.



Step 3: Attach the mini

Ok, sometimes I find it best to permanently attach the mini later, but for this particular mini I am going to permanently attach it now. This all depends on taste, and how complicated of a base you are going to have.

To attach the mini, I clipped off the slotta piece from the bottom of the miniature with my clippers. It may be necessary to file some of the excess off the miniature, but in this case it did not make a difference. Then I drilled a hole in his right foot so that I can attach the model to the base. Once this was done I clipped a piece of paper clip and attached it to the hole in his foot.



At this point you would normally have to drill a hole in the cork and the base to attach, but somehow I managed to line everything up so that the original diagonal slot on the base had just enough of a hole that I did not have to do this (amazing how things work out sometimes).



Next up will be primering.




Chapter 4: Primering

Ok, so we have the model prepped and ready to go, now all we need to do is primer him so we can begin painting.

Something to keep in mind here is that there are a few different ways to primer, the top three being spray primer, brush, or air brush. If that was not difficult enough, you also have to decide what color to primer, the primary choices being black and white, but almost any color can be used. I prefer to use a spray primer, and the brand in particular that I use is from Games Workshop. A also prefer to primer in black, but I will on occasion use white. The big difference in my opinion is the way the paint looks afterward. If you primer with white, then your initial base coat color is going to be much brighter, but you will also need to make sure and do more darklining. If you primer in black then your basecoat is going to be much darker, but the shadow areas will need much less work.



Weather can play a big difference when primering. If it is raining or humid outside, then the primer is not going to stay on the model as well when you first spray. If it is below freezing, the primer may not stick at all.

To begin, make sure and get yourself an old box top so that the excess paint does not go everywhere. You should always spray paint in a well ventilated area, as many of the fumes can be toxic. I do all my primering on the back porch and place my box top on an old stool. The stool helps because it allows me to rotate the box.

The next step is to shake your primer vigorously for a full minute, as this will help to ensure the ingredients are well mixed. This is especially important if the can of primer has not been used in some time. With the model in an upright position, begin spraying by holding the can approximately 12 inches away and spray evenly across the surface of the model in short bursts. You want good coverage, but do not go overboard because you may obscure the details of the miniature. If need be you can always go back and respray the model. Once the model has a good coat on it, begin rotating the box around on the stool so that the entire model gets a coat. Allow this to dry for 30 minutes.



Once dry, lay the model on its back and begin primering again in the same manner as above. This will ensure that you are able to get the entire model. Allow this to dry for 30 minutes, then lay the model on its stomach and repeat the process.



Allow the model to dry for at least 30 minutes. Then you can take some watered down black paint and an old paint brush (I achieve this by dipping my brush in my water, then into the paint) and touch up the spots that you missed with the primer. Don't worry if there are still a few small spots that are showing, as this will be covered up later with the initial basecoat.



Let the model stand overnight, and you can begin painting.

Up next, starting on the skin...




Chapter 5: Painting the skin

Ok, now the fun begins. To start, I want to explain how to hold the brush. This is important, especially if you have extremely shaky hands like I do. Hold the miniature in one hand, and the brush in the other. The trick is to keep the bottom portion of the hand that is holding the brush against the miniature, this will allow you to place the brush exactly where you want it on the mini. Take a look at the picture to see what I mean.



Lets start painting. For a really nice table top quality model I like to use between 7 and 9 stages of paint to achieve the desired effect. If you want to enter golden daemon then I would go with up to 10 to 12 layers. Or, if you want a quick and good table top quality you can go with 3 to 5 layers. To paint the skin we are going to be using a technique called Feathering, which is simply the application of progressively smaller transparent layers of color in order to visually blend each layer into the previous one.

First we have to decide what colors to use. In my case I am going to use Citadel Paints for the skin: Dark Flesh, Tanned Flesh, Dwarf Flesh, and Elf Flesh. So, we will end up with a good 7 stages:

1. Dark Flesh
2. 50% mixture of Dark Flesh and Tanned Flesh
3. Tanned Flesh
4. 50% mixture of Tanned Flesh and Dwarf Flesh
5. Dwarf Flesh
6. 50% mixture of Dwarf Flesh and Elf Flesh
7. Elf Flesh

Another question I get a lot is what do I mix into my paints for consistency. My answer is simple: water. When I use paints a lot, like I do with this particular skin recipe, I will add the water straight to my bottles and also I will have my 50% mixtures all pre mixed in there own bottles. Remember that the definition of feathering includes this statement "the application of progressively smaller transparent layers of color". So to get a transparent layer of color I go with a 50% mix of water to paint, with the exception of my base color which is a 25% mix of water to paint. The thing to remember is that you want your paint to have a nice milky substance when you begin painting.



Stage 1. DARK FLESH

For this stage I use a Fine Detail Citadel Brush (which is not as small of a brush as they would lead you to believe). I simply cover all the areas that are going to be skin, ensuring to get right up against the edges of things like bracelets, hair, etc. This only needs to dry for a few minutes.



Stage 2. DARK FLESH and TANNED FLESH MIX

This stage is going to use the same brush as before. I am going to ensure to cover all of the skin areas, leaving only a little of the Dark Flesh showing at the edges where the skin meets the bracelets, clothes, hair, etc. Again, this only needs to dry for a few minutes.



Up next, the next few stages...

Thanks guys





Chapter 5: Skintones cont.

Stage 3: TANNED FLESH

At this point, I drop my citadel paint brush and start using a 2/0 Vellejo Kolinsky Sable Brush. The goal with this stage is to leave the Dark Flesh/Tanned Flesh mix showing in only the deeper recesses of the muscles. Also, start getting into the habit of following the path of the muscles with your brush, as it will give the strokes a more realistic look. During this stage you are effectively breaking your model down into a lot of little parts with the deep creases being the breaks. Take a look at the picture below.



Stage 4: TANNED FLESH and DWARF FLESH MIX

Ok, now we are getting somewhere. At this point you want to start recessing your strokes a bit, so that each inidividual muscle still has a little bit of the previous color on it. Also, start breaking the individual muscles down a bit to give them further definition. See the picture above.

Stage 5: DWARF FLESH

At this stage we want to start really dividing the big muscle groups into smaller ones (like the biceps, shoulder muscles, etc) so that they start taking on a sinewy look. I really like painting like this because it gives all my heroes a superhuman looking strength. Take a look at the picture below.



Stage 6: DWARF FLESH and ELF FLESH

Ok, at this point I drop my brush size down to a 3/0 Vellejo Kolinsky Sable Brush. I do this so that each brush stroke can be just a little separated from the last, which will allow us to separate those muscles even more. This color will be an extreme highlight for the lower portions (like under the arms, the belly, under the legs, etc). Take a look at the picture above.

Stage 7: ELF FLESH

Alright, this is the final highlight, and should only be used to eccentuate the muscles on the upper portions of the body, the parts that would be getting hit by direct sunlight. Also, really define these lines. Take a look at the pics below, in the close up I think you can see what I am talking about.



And that is it for the skin. Really simple. We will revisit later when we come back for final touchups.

Up next, we will start the hair...



Chapter 6: Painting Hair

Ok, so the skin is done. Now, let us move on to the next piece, and that is the hair. For those of you that do not know, Dwarf Slayers are supposed to be fanatic type dwarfs who die there hair in really rediculous colors to add ferocity to their look. I like to paint my slayers with flaming orange hair. So, let's get our colors together:

1. Dark Flesh (Citadel Paints)
2. Blood Red (Reaper Pro Paints, although it is very close in color to Citadel's version)
3. Blazing Orange (Citadel Paints)
4. Fiery Orange (Citadel Paints)
5. Merigold Yellow (Reaper Master Series)
6. Sunlight Yellow (Reaper Master Series)



Ok, I use four different brands of paint: Citadel, Reaper Pro, Reaper Master Series, and Vallejo Model Color. If you only use one brand of paint, you can still follow along, just substitute a color from your brand. For instance, Merigold Yellow can be achieved by mixing 50:50 of Fiery Orange and Sunburst Yellow from Citadel Paints.

Stage 1: Dark Flesh
This is going to represent the deepest shadows, so apply a solid basecoat. I use the Fine Detail Brush from Games Workshop for this step. See the picture below.



Stage 2: Blood Red
Ok, at this step I begin using a dry brush. Dry brushes can be achieved in several ways, I myself use an old Fine Detail Brush that has lost its point, but some companies also sell Dry Brushes. Either way, the technique is very simple, just apply paint to the brush, rub the brush across your finger or a napkin to get rid of the excess, and gently pull the brush across the model. If you want more coverage, than go back and apply the step again. For the water ratio on this one, I add very little water when I am dry brushing. Also, for this color, you want a liberal dry brush at the base, and almost complete coverage at the top. See the picture above.

Stage 3: Blazing Orange
Ok, this step we are continuing to dry brush. At this stage, we want to apply a somewhat liberal coat of Blazing orange, as this is really the goal color that we want for our dwarf. See the picture below.



Stage 4: Fiery Orange
This is the last stage where we can get away with drybrushing, so go easy. Apply a gentle drybrush across the hair, allowing yourself to be a bit more liberal just at the top. See the picture above.

Stage 5: Merigold Yellow
At this stage we are going to switch to a Vallejo 3/0 Kolinsky Sable Brush. Here you want to start picking out individual strands of hair and highlighting the higher points. Make sure your paint is at that milky phase that we talked about during the skin chapter. Also, make sure to dab your brush on a napkin or against your hand to take off the excess water so that it does not leak all over the model. Take a look at the picture below:



Stage 6: Sunlight Yellow
Last stage, and the easiest. Same as stage 5, just hit the really high points to bring them out. Take a look at the picture above.

A Quick NOTE: I will probably go back once the model is "done" to apply one additional highlight to every stage. I usually wait to do this because it allows me to touch up any parts of the model that may have gotten messed up at the same time.

Up NEXT: Metallics






Chapter 7: Metallics

Ok, this is the part where things get kind of strange. Metallics, for me, are different on every miniature, and so I normally have to experiment with them to get them to be just as I want them to be. Also, we will be using some washes. A wash is nothing more than really watered down paint or ink.

Before we get started I wanted to cover another real quick trick that I use. As I mentioned before, I use some Reaper Master Series and some Vellejo Model Color paints, which come in squeeze bottles. So, to mix paint from these types of paints, I use water bottle tops. It is a really quick, four step process:

Step 1. Pour required amount of paint into bottle top. If you are mixing two types of paint, then pour both colors in.
Step 2. Dip the blunt end of your brush into your water.
Step 3. Remove from water.
Step 4. Place in bottle top and stir. Continue this process until the paint reaches the desired consistency.



With metallics, I tend to do them in a certain order: weapons, armour, jewelry. It doesn't really matter to me if these items require the same color paints, I work them in order so as not to miss anything. So, to start we are going to begin with the blades on the axes.

The colors we will need:
1. Gunmetal Blue (Reaper Master Series)
2. Blackened Steel (Reaper Master Series)
3. Tarnished Steel (Reaper Master Series)
4. True Silver (Reaper Master Series)
5. Pure White (Reaper Master Series)
6. Mithril Silver (Citadel Paints)
7. Black Wash (mix of black paint, future floor polish, and water)



Stage 1: Gunmetal Blue
Complete coverage, you can leave a small black line between the blade and the ornamentation. I use a citadel fine detail brush for this. First picture below.

Stage 2: Gunmetal Blue and Blackened Steel (50:50 mix)
Complete coverage, but leave a little of the Gunmetal Blue showing. Second picture below.

Stage 3: Blackened Steel
Ok, now I drop down to an older and used 3/0 brush. I use an old one because metallics seem to degrade my brushes more than normal paints. I now start painting lines on the axe blade. Third picture below.

Stage 4: Blacked Steel and Tarnished Steel (50:50 mix)
Staying with the lines that I drew before, I begin to thin them. Also, hit the upper edges of the axe. Fourth picture below.

Stage 5: Tarnished Steel
Continuing with the lines, I begin to bring the color up some. Fifth picture below.



Stage 6: Tarnished Steel and True Silver (50:50 Mix)
Now bring the highlights up some by hitting only the edges of the lines. First picture below.

Stage 7: True Silver
More highlighting. Second picture below.

Stage 8: True Silver and Pure White (50:50 Mix)
Hit just the highest points, and the extreme edges of the lines. Third picture below.

Stage 9: Black Wash
Apply a very diluted wash. Continue this process until you are happy with the result, just be very careful not to over do it. Fourth picture below.

Stage 10: Mithril Silver
Last highlight. I don't know what it is about citadels Mithril Silver, but I really like the shine that it produces. Fifth picture.






Chapter 7: Weapons cont.

Ok, onto the gold. No great wisdom here, just a couple of stages. Only thing new that we will be using is a Brown Ink, but this is applied in the same way as washes. Make sure to water it down so as not to overpower your highlights when you apply it.

Colours we will need:
1. Ancient Bronze (Reaper Master Series)
2. Antique Gold (Reaper Master Series)
3. New Gold (Reaper Master Series)
4. Mithril Silver (Citadel Paints)
5. Brown Ink (Citadel Paints)



Stage 1: Ancient Bronze
Apply this color to all of the parts that will be gold. Make sure to completely cover the black. Take a look at the first picture. I use an old brush for this just like for the silvers.

Stage 2: Brown Wash 1
I use this to pick out the details, and to figure out where to start applying highlights. When dealing with metallics I find it is really hard to highlight without knowing where to put the highlight, because they tend to blend together really well and hide the detail of the mini. Take a look at the second picture below.

Stage 3: Antique Gold
Ok, now start picking out the details with your Antique Gold. I use that same worn out 3/0 brush for this. Take a look at the third picture below.



Stage 4: New Gold
Start really minimizing your use now, especially on the inside threadwork of the weapon, as this will be your final highlight there. Make sure to pick out the fine details of the dragon head. Take a look at the first picture below.

Stage 5: New Gold and Mithril Silver mix
Highlight only the dragon head and handle, as this will set it apart from the inside scroll work of the axe. Take a look at the second picture below.

Stage 6: Brown Wash
Apply this wash only to the inside scroll work of the axe heads. This will further separate the colors of the inside scroll work and the dragon heads. Take a look at the last picture below.






Chapter 7: Weapons cont. (wood)

Ok, so even though theses weapons would probably look really great as all metal monstrosities, I have a tendency to try and incorporate wood into my pieces. So, the handles on both axes are going to be made of wood.

Colours needed (all citadel paints):
1. Scorched Brown
2. "I swear too much" Brown
3. Snakebite Leather
4. Desert Yellow
5. Kommando Khaki

This is a recipe I use a lot.



Stage 1: Scorched Brown
Base coat. Cover all of the areas where you want the wood to be (for me this will be the shaft of both weapons). Leave a thin black line between the shaft and the metal pieces. First picture.

Stage 2: "I swear too much" Brown
Ok, using my 3/0 Kolinksy sable brush, I begin to make lines on the wood. They don't have to be straight, or in a similar pattern. What you are trying to do is to simulate wood grain, so use your imagination. Second picture.

Stage 3: Snakebite Leather
Moving away from the shadows, but on the same lines you just created, begin to highlight the lines. Third picture.

Stage 4: Desert Yellow
Another highlight, even further from the shadows. Fourth picture.

Stage 5: Kommando Khaki
Final highlight, only in the extreme center of the lines. Fifth picture.



Up next: Glowing runes....

Thanks for all the comments guys. Starting to feel a bit tipsy.....

#2 LF - Kevin B

LF - Kevin B

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Posted 26 August 2007 - 08:13 PM



Chapter 7: Weapons cont. (runes)

Ok, now for some fun. We are going to attempt to make the runes on this weapon appear to be very bright and glowing.

Rune Colours (reaper master series):
1. Black
2. Red Brick
3. Deep Red
4. Blood Red
5. Bright Red
6. Phoenix Red
7. Fire Orange
8. Merigold Yellow
9. Sunlight Yellow
10. Lemon Yellow

Seems like a lot of stages, but it is really not that bad. Also, note that I hit the dragons eyes with a couple of the stages.



Stage 1: Black
Ok, if you noticed the primer tends to rub off the more you handle the mini. Also, this stage is a good idea in case you got some other colors on the areas you want to paint. So, just go over your rune areas with some black paint. I am also going to hand paint some runes on the axe head (between the ears of the dragon) so I will outline the shape of the runes that I want. Sorry, no picture of this stage.

Stage 2: Red Brick
For all of these stages I use my 3/0 Kolinsky sable brush. This stage is really to help tone down the darkness of the black, since the end result that we want is going to be a bright color. Cover everything except a very thin line of black. Picture one.

Stage 3: Deep Red
Completely cover everything as before, just leave that really thin line of black. This color will be the deepest shade of the runes. Dot the dragons eyes also. This is really easy to do, just dip your brush in the paint (diluted with water of course), and then rub it across your finger. It is important here to be sure that your brush is not overloaded with water. Also, make sure that you have a nice point. Once all of this is in order, gently wipe your brush across the eye. Sometime there is not enough paint on the brush and you have to redo it. I will try to get pics of how to do this when we go back and do the eyes of the dwarf. Picture two.

Stage 4: Blood Red
Ok, leave just a little bit of the deep red showing in the centers of the runes (very small amount). Picture three.

Stage 5: Bright Red
Work your way out a little more at this stage. Dot the dragon eyes again. Picture four.

Stage 6: Phoenix Red
Ok, now start concentrating on the outer edges of the runes and the tips. Picture five.

Stage 7: Fire Orange
Edges and tips. Picture six.

Stage 8: Merigold Yellow
Edges and tips again. Dragon eyes for the last time. Picture seven.

Stage 9:Sunlight Yellow
Extreme edges and tips. Picture eight.

Stage 10: Lemon Yellow
Be greedy here, only a very small amount on the very extreme eges and tips. Picture nine.



And here is a final pic of the whole dwarf:



Up next: Loin cloth




Sorry about the delay... work and all that nonsense. Thanks for the replies. As far as actual time painting, this has probably taken about 4 hours so far, not including drying time for the paint and primering.

Chapter 8: Loin Cloth

Ok, so this stage is probably the most fun, because it gives us a chance to add some variety to the miniature. Now, eventually we will do some tatoos on the body which will be in blue, so to tie that in my main color for the loin cloth will also be blue. I like to paint my dwarfs with a scottish type background, so my complimentary color for blue is white.

The Colours:

Blue - (all Reaper Master Series except the first one)
1. Midnight Blue (Citadel Paints)
2. Ultramarine Shadow
3. Ultramarine Blue
4. Ultramarine Highlight
5. True Blue
6. Sky Blue
7. Pure White

White - (all Reaper Master Series except the first one)
1. "I swear too much" Brown (Citadel Paints)
2. Stained Ivory
3. Yellowed Bone
4. Creamy Ivory
5. Linen White
6. Pure White



Stage 1: Base coat of Midnight Blue on the loin cloth and on the straps in the front under the armour. Once that is dry run a stripe across the bottom of the loin cloth with "I swear too much" Brown. First picture.

Stage 2: Leaving the Midnight blue in the deepest shadows, paint Ultramarine Shadow. Second picture.

Stage 3: Ultramarine Shadow and a 50% mix of Ultramarine Blue. Work up the bends in the cloth, leaving the deep fissures. Third picture.



Stage 4: Ultramarine Blue. From here on out it is just a case of feathering up as we have discussed in a previous chapter. First picture.

Stage 5: Ultramarine Blue and a 50% mixture of Ultramarine Highlight. Second picture.

Stage 6: Ultramarine Highlight. Third picture.



Stage 7: Ultramarine Highlight and a 50% mixture of True Blue. First picture.

Stage 8: True Blue. Second picture.

Stage 9: True Blue and a 50% mixture of Sky Blue. At this point you should be concentrating the paint at the very top of the folds. Third picture.



Stage 10: Sky Blue. Really start concentrating on the upper portions of the folds. First picture.

Stage 11: Sky Blue and a 50% mix of Pure White. Just the very tips of the highest portions of the folds. Second picture.



Stage 12: OK, at this point we are going to highlight that brown strip. Go over it with a 50% mix of "I swear too much" Brown and Stained Ivory. First picture.

Stage 13: Leave only the deepest recesses, go over the strip with Stained Ivory. Second picture.

Stage 14: Back to feathering. Stained Ivory with a 50% mix of Yellowed Bone. Third picture.

Stage 15: Yellowed Bone. Fourth picture.



Stage 16: Yellowed Bone with a 50% mix of Creamy Ivory. First picture.

Stage 17: Creamy Ivory. Second picture.

Stage 18: Linen White. Just on the extreme folds.

Stage 19: Pure White. Just on the high points of the extreme folds.



And here is the overall picture:



Next up will be the armour and jewels...




Sorry for the delay...

Chapter 9: Gems, jewels, and armour

Ok, the gold jewelry and armour will be painted in the same manner as the weapons so I won't be going over that again.

Gems, however, are a whole different story, and really easy.

Here are the colors we are going to need (all are Reaper Master Series):

0= Black
1. Red Brick
2. Deep Red
3. Blood Red
4. Bright Red
5. Phoenix Red
6. Fire Orange
7. Pure White
8. Future Floor Polish (or a shiny gloss)



Stage 1. Recoat all of the areas you plan to do with black. Picture one below.

Stage 2. Fill 3/4 of the gem in a moon shape with Red Brick. Picture two below.

Stage 3. Fill 3/4 of the red brick moon shape with Deep Red. Picture three below.



Stage 4. Fill 3/4 of the deep red with blood red. Picture one below.

Stage 5. Fill 3/4 of the blood red with bright red. Picture two below.

Stage 6. Fill 3/4 of the bright red with Phoenix Red. This should be about a sliver by now. Picture three below.



Stage 7. Fill just a small part of the phoenix red with Fiery Orange. Picture one below.

Stage 8. Add a white dot to the 1/4 black. Picture two below.

Stage 9. Finally, coat all of your gems with Future Floor Polish. This will give them that extra bit of shinyness. You should wait until after you dullcoat to do this though, I have done it here just to show you the result. Picture three below.



And here is the overall figure...



Next up, leather...


Garagrim: Sorry....

Thalagrim: Thanks mate... it is my pleasure.

retiye: Painting drunk... sounds fun.

Dal Thingaz: Thanks for the honor. I will try to not be so far behind schedule...



Chapter 10: Boots

Ok, this one is pretty simple and went by pretty quickly.

The colours:

Leather -

1. Scorched Brown (Citadel Paints)
2. Muddy Brown (Reaper Master Series)
3. Earth Brown (Reaper Master Series)
4. Leather Brown (Reaper Master Series)

Fur -

1. Scorched Brown (Citadel Paints)
2. Vermin Brown (Citadel Paints)
3. Vomit Brown (Citadel Paints)
4. Bubonic Brown (Citadel Paints)



For the leather:

Stage 1.
Apply a basecoat of Scorched brown over the entire boot, to include the fur area. Picture one below. You can also reference this picture when we start the fur.

Stage 2.
Muddy Brown. Begin picking out the raised areas, leaving only the deepest creases and a small amount between the leather portion and the fur. Picture two below.

Stage 3.
50% Muddy Brown and 50% Earth Brown mix. Begin highlighting the raised areas of the leather. Picture three below.



Stage 4.
Earth Brown. Continue highlighting the raised areas, leaving the lower areas Muddy Brown. Picture one below.

Stage 5.
50% Earth Brown and 50% Leather Brown mix. Continue highlighting the raised areas, leaving the Earth Brown showing at the bottom of the creases. Picture two below.

Stage 6.
Leather Brown. Highlight only the very tops of the creases. Picture three below.



Fur -

Stage 1.
Scorched brown. Reference Step one for leather to see a picture, but this will be your base color.

Stage 2.
Vermin Brown. Pick out all the individual hairs with this color, leaving the deep parts scorched brown. Picture one below.

Stage 3.
Vomit Brown. Highlight the tips of the hairs, about halfway down each strand. Picture two below.

Stage 4.
Bubonic Brown. Highlight the very tips of each strand of hair. Picture three below.



And, finally here is an overall update.



Up next, tattoos....




Chapter 11: Tattoos.

Ok, some of you may be a little disappointed with me on this chapter, but I couldn't bring myself to do an elaborate tattoo, I just did not want to cover up any more skin than I had too. Plus, I am severely lacking when it comes to two dimensional art, I just don't have the talent to do intricate designs. So, what I did do was a couple of runes that mirror the runes on the axe.

The coulours:

1. Dragon Black (Reaper Pro Paint)
2. Ultramarine Shadow (Reaper Master Series)
3. Ultramarine Blue (Reaper Master Series)
5. True Blue (Reaper Master Series)
6. Sky Blue (Reaper Master Series)



Stage 1. Darken in the design that you want with Dragon Black (or a suitable black color). In this case I have gone with a simple design using the runes from the axe. Picture one below.

Stage 2. Using the Ultramarine Shadow, I have blocked in the black runes, leaving just a small amount of black around the edges. Picture two below.

Stage 3. Using Ultramarine Blue, I have filled in the Ultramarine Shadow, leaving only a small edge showing. Picture three below.

Stage 4. Using True Blue, I have hit only the raised areas of the tattoos. Picture four below.

Stage 5. Usine Sky Blue, very sparingly, I have hit all the corners and extreme raised areas. Picture five below.



And an overall picture:



Ok, so not what some of you may have been expecting, but if you have an aritistic nature you may have still learned something and can hopefully apply it with your abilities.

Up next, the ORC HEAD...




Chapter 12: The Orc Head

Alright, a change of direction. We are going to paint that pesky little orc head that has been underfoot all this time.

To begin, we will paint the skin.

Colours (all are Citadel Paints)

1. Dark Angels Green
2. Snot Green
3. Goblin Green
4. Scorpion Green



Stage 1: Dark Angels Green.
At this stage give the orc head a base coat of Dark Angels green. Picture one below.

Stage 2: Snot Green
Leaving only the deepest recesses, apply a layer of Snot Green. Picture two below.

Stage 3: 50% Snot Green and 50% Goblin Green mixed
Begin highlighting the higher areas at this stage. Picture three below.



Stage 4: Goblin Green
Further highlight, again working up the natural folds of the skin and the tips of the nose, ears, etc. Picture one below.

Stage 5: 50% Goblin Green and 50% Scorpion Green mixed
Start hitting the really high highlights at this stage, especially the area around the neck. Picture two below.

Stage 6: Scorpion Green.
Final highlight, so make sure to limit this to only the highest portions of the orc head. Picture three below.



Alright, moving on to the teeth and the piece of neck bone sticking out of the back side of the head.

The Colours (all are Reaper Master Series paints)

1. Bone Shadow
2. Aged Bone
3. Polished Bone



This one is pretty easy, since they are so small I opted to do only three stages.

Stage 1. Bone Shadow.
Apply a base of Bone Shadow to the teeth and the piece of neck bone in the back. Leave a bit of black showing (not too much though). Picture one below.

Stage 2. Aged Bone.
Highlight the teeth and neck bone, working your way up the teeth and bone. Picture two below.

Stage 3. Polished Bone.
Highlight even further, doing the tips of the teeth and the edges of the bone. Picture three below.




Ok, finally the tongue and eyes.

Colours:

1. Blood Red (Reaper Pro Paints)
2. Dwarf Flesh (Citadel Paints)



Stage 1. Blood Red.
Apply a base of blood red to the tounge and also to the area beside the neck bone where the had has been severed. For the eyes, my trick is simple. Dip your brush into your water, wiping the brush against the container to get rid of all the excess water. Then dip your brush (I use the 4/0 Kolinksy Sable Brush) into your paint. Once you are ready, wipe the excess on a paper towel or the back of your finger and guide the tip of the brush to the inside of the eye. It is OK if you are not precise, as long as you don't get it all over the place. We are going to revisit the orc eyes in the next chapter when we do eyes. Picture one below.

Stage 2. 2/3 Blood Red and 1/3 Dwarf Flesh.
Begin highlighting with this mixture, leaving some of the blood red exposed. Picture two below.

Stage 3. 1/3 Blood Red and 2/3 Dwarf Flesh
Continue highlighting, moving down the tongue and more the the center of the meaty stuff in his neck. Picture three below.

Stage 4. Dwarf Flesh.
Use this for the extreme highlights, particularly the upper edge of the tongue. Picture four below.




And finally, a full view.



Up next, eyes...




Chapter 13: Eyes.

Ok, first and foremost, I want to apologize for the really crappy pictures. I just could not get them to come out well.

So, first off, the colours. Pretty simple:

1. Walnut Brown (Reaper Pro Paints)
2. Linen White (Reaper Pro Paints)



Stage 1: Walnut Brown.
This is basically a touch up stage if you need it, darken in the area around the eyes. I use a 4/0 brush for this.

Stage 2: Linen white.
Ok, I use the 4/0 brush, dip it in water, then in paint, brush the excess paint off, then I brush the tip of the brush against my fingertip to get a nice point. From here, I just apply the white in the areas that I want it, leaving one small dark spot in the middle to represent the pupil. It may take a few applications, but the patience is worth it.

Stage 3: Walnut Brown.
Ok, using the 4/0 brush again and the same technique as above, I fill in the pupil until i am satisified.

Stage 4: Touch up.
If you need to touch up either the white or walnut brown, do so. Or, if you look at the model and are not satisfied, go back in and redo them.

So, that is it for eyes. Again, sorry about the pic, but it was near impossible to get a decent one.






Chapter 14: Colour the Base.

Ok, this chapter is actually a lot of fun.

The colours (all citadel paints except Linen White):

1. Scorched Brown
2. "I swear too much" Brown
3. Vermin Brown
4. Vomit Brown
5. Codex Grey
6. Fortress Grey
7. Linen White (Reaper Pro Paints)



Stage 1: Scorched Brown.
Ok, using an old brush, I apply a nice basecoat of Scorched Brown. You can leave some black peaking through if you want.

Stage 2: "I swear too much" Brown.
Same old brush, drybrush the entire base area. You can be pretty generous on your drybrushing, meaning you can apply a bit of pressure to the brush.

Stage 3: Vermin Brown.
Continue drybrushing, same brush. Let up a bit on the brush though.

Stage 4: Vomit Brown.
Final brown highlight, so be stingy with it. Hit only the extreme edges, and be really light on the drybrushing.



Stage 5: Codex Grey.
Apply a generous drybrush (it is OK to leave a little brown in some of the recesses) to all of the areas that you want to look like rock.

Stage 6: Fortress Grey.
Drybrush the rock edges.

Stage 7: Linen White.
Really light drybrush (very light) to the extreme edges and high places of the rocks.







#3 LF - Kevin B

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Posted 26 August 2007 - 08:13 PM


Chapter 15: Adding Snow and blood.

Ok, this is a really simple process. For this job you will need the following materials:

1. Snow Effects (I use the one from Woodland Scenics)
2. Glue (I use Elmers)
3. Water
4. Eye dropper - not shown in pic.
4. Bottle Top
5. Bamboo Skewer (or similiar object, you want blunt end and one pointy end) - not shown in pic.
6. Red Ink (Reaper Master Series) - not shown in pic



Stage 1: Combine the ingredients.
Ok, take the bottle top and dip it into the Snow Effect container, filling the top about a quarter of the way or less (all depends on how much snow you need). Then, squeeze some glue into the cap. Take the eye dropper and get some water (about a quarter of the way on a small eye dropper) and add it to the mix.



Stage 2: Stirring the mix.
Use the blunt end of the bamboo skewer to stir the mix together. The consistency should end up being somewhere between chunky and milky, if that makes any sense. I want small chunks, but I also want a little of it to be milky. If the consistency is not to your tastes, add more of whatever you need. In this case, mine was a bit to watery, so I used the back of my skewer and dipped it into the Snow Effect container, stirring it into the mix.



Stage 3: Apply the snow.
Ok, using the pointy end of the skewer, add a small amount of the mix to the tip. Then, transfer it onto the base. If you have to put it in a tight spot, set it on an open spot first, and slowly pull the snow into the tight areas (i.e. next the the goblin head). Continue in this fashion until you are satisfied.

Stage 4: Apply blood.
Allow the snow mix to dry overnight. Then, mix some red ink and water together, it can be thick if you want, but remember the thicker you let it be the more extreme it will look when you apply it. On this model, I added some to the severed head piece, and (another reason I really like this snow) allowed the brush to drain where the head met the ground. What happens with this snow is that it sucks the color into it, sort of like a sponge, so in the center it is dark and on the outskirts it is lighter. I also added a few drops to the axe blades.


[/quote]


[quote name='mousekiller' date='May 6 2007, 06:13 PM' post='186192']
Chapter 16: Finishing touches.

Ok, lets finish this guy up, I think it has been long enough. So, what you are going to need is:

1. Walnut Brown (Reaper Pro Paints)
2. Dull Coat (I use Testors)
3. Future Floor Polish



Stage 1: Walnut Brown.
Ok, you can use whatever color you want here, but I like to use a dark color. You want to paint the sides of the base. Try not to use too thick of paint, or you may leave brush strokes.



Stage 2: Dull coat.
Give the base about 30 minutes to dry. Once it is, take it to a well ventilated area, and using the same procedures that we did when we primered the model, you will apply the dull coat. If this is for game play, you may want to add a gloss coat, followed by a dull coat as this will offer extra protection. I add to layers of dull coat (about an hour between coats).



Stage 3: Future Floor Polish
Go back and hit the gems, the back of the severed neck, and anywhere you want to be shiny with the future floor polish as we talked about in the gem chapter.






Sorry, realized that the last chapter never made it here...

Chapter 17: Be proud of yourself.

Ok, this chapter is all about being proud of what you have achieved. The way you can do this, is post your finished work on a forum like this one. Ask what people think, what improvements can be made for the next mini (if you are a painter). If you are a gamer, get this guy on the table and have him crush your opponent.









And, of course, check him out at CMON: Slayer at CMON



#4 Mercenary

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Posted 15 November 2007 - 08:44 AM

i-m_so_happy.gif i-m_so_happy.gif i-m_so_happy.gif i-m_so_happy.gif i-m_so_happy.gif fantastic job i love your work =]
what is the name of that slayer ?

#5 Magnund Falgrimsson

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Posted 01 December 2007 - 04:11 AM

Lord Firmshaft, what a magnificent class on artwork--sculpting and painting--you have presented here! You are awesome! I especially like all the details on the axes. Not the usual plain fare! And, of course, I like his footstool! 101 good uses for an Orc's head!
Please have a keg on my tab!

#6 Thorek the Immortal

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Posted 01 December 2007 - 07:59 AM

QUOTE (Magnund Falgrimsson @ Dec 1 2007, 05:11 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Lord Firmshaft, what a magnificent class on artwork--sculpting and painting--you have presented here! You are awesome! I especially like all the details on the axes. Not the usual plain fare! And, of course, I like his footstool! 101 good uses for an Orc's head!
Please have a keg on my tab!


OMG didn't you even read the topic title? No offense, but it's not Firmsahfts paint job. It was done by mousekiller as the topic heading says.

#7 Grungi Ironbeard

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Posted 03 January 2008 - 02:07 PM

WoW! Fantastic guide and great to see the pictures step by step as it really helps understand better unlike aot of other guides with just words!

*gets ready to buy slayer model*

Great Job Killer of Mouses, Grungi

#8 Glorrim

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Posted 29 April 2008 - 09:05 PM

Nice Tutorial great job!

So did you paint it using the paints you mix at the start of tutorial? or do you use a bit of both? mellow.gif

#9 Khazadson

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Posted 29 April 2008 - 11:33 PM

it's unlikely mousekiller will respond to that, he posted this a very long time ago. However, he clearly states what paints he is using for each step (he even posts pictures of the paint pots).

Edited by Khazadson, 29 April 2008 - 11:34 PM.


#10 gotrek ironthumb

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Posted 09 May 2008 - 05:56 PM

WOW, that model looks AMAZING

Edited by gotrek ironthumb, 09 May 2008 - 05:57 PM.


#11 mousekiller

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Posted 07 July 2008 - 12:24 AM

Sorry I haven't been around the brewery much lately, but my most recent projects have brought me elsewhere (night goblins, chaos, and vamps)... but my next army could be dwarfs if I could get some more dwarf votes over at the warhammer forum, or warhammer alliance, or warhammer realm, or reapermini. Anyway, look for the topic "What army to paint next" and throw a vote in so I can hang out here more, I really like this place.

Thanks for all the comments on this guy, and yes, all the paint mixes were posted with the colors. Nothing was left unsaid (I know what you mean though, I have seen a lot of tutorials that do that - go from goblin green to scorpion green but forget to mention that there is a mix in between). Hope you guys enjoyed it.

#12 Burmann_ironoath

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Posted 18 November 2008 - 11:46 PM

Best paint job I've ever seen.
If I had a cookie, it would be yours right now.
o_o

#13 Mackelius

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Posted 20 November 2008 - 08:25 PM

This is made of awesome!!! :D

#14 ironlord

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 01:01 PM

that is amazing!
a tip of that hat (and a cookie) to you sir

i dont think i would have the patience to sit down and do something so detailed so it just goes to show that the longbeards know best and do the best work

#15 voronin

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Posted 24 July 2009 - 01:25 PM

wonderful piece, great paintjob too.

#16 nicp

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 11:50 PM

I don't like the amount of flesh paint you are suposed to put on the mini to get a descent tone color, so I avoid black undercoats nowadays. But it surely is much more easier for armies to work with black, I'm just not impressed by the results I get. So I better first start being OK from white undercoat.
Nice tutorial

#17 Axtklinge

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 03:14 PM

Fantastic work and great tutorial!
Congratulations!
A.

#18 Wigham

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Posted 07 June 2011 - 10:51 AM

awesome guide mate, very useful

#19 Ursun

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Posted 05 July 2011 - 12:17 AM

I :drinks: love :guinesssmilie: you - no dawimo

#20 BrewerOfDoom

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Posted 18 July 2011 - 02:17 PM

Nice man im looking forward to see a whole unit of this




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